Shaping the brows emphasizes the eyes and helps give character to the face. Eyebrow shaping can be provided on its own or combined with other treatments.
The eyebrow hairs grow in skin that lies over the base of the frontal at the appear part of the eye socket. The ticker hairs, which make up the general shape of the brows, protect the bony prominence. Finer hairs grow further down towards the eye socket. These fine hairs are more obvious in darker people. They tend to give a ‘heavy’ appearance to the brows, which can dominate the upper eye area. In fair people, these hairs are less obvious but they spoil the effect of eye make-up. By removing excess hair, the skin becomes smoother and more suitable for make-up.
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Choosing an eyebrow shape
Eyebrow shapes come in and out of fashion as often as make-up fashions change. For younger clients, fashion may be the only influence on their choice of eyebrow shape.
An eyebrow shape should be chosen which:
- Suits the client’s face
- Emphasizes their eyes
- Suits the natural growth of their eyebrows
- Complements or corrects their natural eyebrow shape
- Dose not expose any skin imperfections (for example, scarring)
- Is suitable for the age of the client
The correct eyebrow width and height is determined as follows:
- Rest an orange stick against the widest part of the nose and the inner corner of the eye. The eyebrow should not extend beyond this line.
- Move the orange stick so that it makes a diagonal line from the nose across the outer corner of the eye and up to the eyebrow. The eyebrow should not extend past this point.
- To find where the highest point of the eyebrow should be, hold the orange stick vertically so it passes the outside edge of the iris of the eye. The point where the orange stick passes through the brow indicates the highest point.
- The horizontal position of the eyebrow is determined by the depth of the eye, from the upper lash line to the lower lash line. The top of the eyebrow (at the arch) is another full eye width from the base of the eyebrow.
The eyebrow shape be determined according to the facial proportions of the model.
- If the model has high forehead, the eyebrows should have high arch to give the illusion of reducing the depth of the forehead.
- If the model has a low forehead, the eyebrows should appear straight (low arch) to give the illusion of increasing the depth of the forehead.
- If the model has wide set eye, extra length on the inner corner (by leaving extra hairs here) can give the illusion of reducing the distance between the eyes.
- If the model has close set eyes, a few extra hairs can be removed from the inner corner of the eyebrows giving the illusion of increasing the distance between the eyes.
- If the model has a round face shape, eyebrows should be straight or angular.
- If the model has a prominent nose, eyebrows should be arched to help balance large features.
Simms. J, A Practical Guide to Beauty Therapy for NVQ Level 2 – 2003
Conway. J, Make-Up Artistry – 2004